
La Grande Motte: A Very French Holiday Destination
By and large, a Reception School Sports Day wouldn’t normally float my boat. But this was no ordinary Sports Day; this was Little Hurricane’s sports day to which I was invited by his mother, my daughter: The Tornado.
Picture if you will a large, flat, dry yet well-tended East London park scattered with individual zones delineated by cones, tape, buckets and anything useful to assist in said zone marking. Each space was colonised by an abundance of very excited, very small people and surrounded by equally excited larger folk, with a keen interest in seeing their particular small person disport themselves with aplomb at each of the games set up for that day’s competitive events.
Most events were familiar: (egg and spoon, relay, the good old running race) but I also had to get to grips with lesser known or understood activities involving hoops, buckets and what-not, all of which received loud, supportive cheering and whooping to encourage LH to his many triumphs. Of course, he excelled at everything, his ultimate achievement being the running race, which he won by several kilometres … We are all so proud.
A truly golden moment of the morning however, was watching Tornado and Father-of-LH show immense enthusiasm for the sack race … parents flocked to take ownership of a bag, the air abundant with mounting tension as they prepared for the whistle … and then they were off! Grown men and women each leaping determinedly within the confines of their sack, but with such serious intent that Father-of-LH dived head-first over the finishing line eliciting huge cheers from the assembled crowd. Marvellous.
The next Great Event of the week was the arrival of Youngest-of-All, The Exocet from Melbourne. With her partner Son-out-Law, this visit was the penultimate leg of a Grand Tour taking in France and Switzerland. They arrived in Brighton on Friday, the reunion accompanied by much emotion (me) and exuberant happiness (all). The Exocet’s birthday fell within this visit, so much celebration was on the cards.
A Saturday Family lunch preceded a Very Jolly Gathering of neighbours and local friends with a special visit from The Bethnal Green-and-Hackney Two, dear and long-standing friends who have known My Girls since they were very small. Amongst the guests were fellow Mewsketeers and neighbours plus new friends, the Monks-in-the-City who live not 200 meters from us and are attached to my brother’s old school.
I came to know The Monks when strolling past their Church recently, and saw a notice announcing Friday Hour of Contemplation. Here one can light a candle or few and generally absorb the joys of life, love and everything, in silence with occasional gentle music. As a Collapsed Catholic, this hour of peace and thought is oddly reassuring. The Monkish presence at our Gathering elicited not a little surprised interest from those assembled … but wine flowed and a fine time was had by all.
For the Exocet Birthday itself we meandered to Brighton Beach House for light lunch after which the Palace Pier and it’s siren charms called. My valued Resident’s Pass gained us free access and we headed straight to the amusement arcade, where 2p coins were pumped rapidly into the shove-machines eliciting regular coin cascades to refresh our modest allowance. My ultimate triumph won me a (very small) bouncy ball, now gifted to LH to doubtless cause havoc at home.
While Exocet and SoL frolicked on the Helter-Skelter and Water Slide, I slid some Great British Pounds to the Tarot Reader, who assured me that a Knight in Shining Armour was about to enter my life, that the future is sweet and that I am lucky (I concur).
All of this procrastination led ultimately to the Bumper Cars.
Here, Exocet adopted an expression last seen when aged four, she took the wheel of her Early Learning Centre car. The sheer determination to steer slap-bang into Mother was not just successful on many occasions, but also testament to her moniker. I retaliated of course, but impressive control of her car won the day – and me, a few bruises.
Another Birthday Lunch was booked into very new Kemp Town wine bar, The Vine House where the most delightful dishes were served together with some fine Cabanon de Viognier.
The practical talents of HH came good when we witnessed a new stove being delivered but unable to fit through the kitchen door. Strolling to the ensuing kerfuffle he offered his help, removed the legs and assisted a seamless oven delivery into The Vine House kitchen. A clearly relieved Partner of the place stood us a second bottle of wine and much appreciation. HH is jolly handy to have around.
My last few days with The Exocet and SoL were spent in La Grande Motte, half an hour south of Montpellier. This fabulous resort was built on reclaimed land when the 1960s French Government wanted to encourage affordable tourism and the working classes to take holidays. A single architect Jean Balladur was appointed to plan, design and build the new town. Reader, this is a most exceptional place if you love modernism … the buildings are inspired by pre-Columbian Mexican pyramids, designed to blend art, shape, and shadow. Not to mention influences of Corbusier and Niemeyer.
The beaches are glorious, the shops, bars and restaurants excellent and reasonable. A very French holiday destination, La Grande Motte is populated by … The French. No rubbish food in sight.
Walkways conjoin every part of the place; Exocet and SoL were in a lovely hotel overlooking the marina. My attempt to save money was highly successful at £83/night. Hotel, however, was a misnomer for the property at which I landed. It transpired to be nothing more than student accommodation, with mop and bucket provided so you can clean the place yourself. The property looked nothing like the photos shown on website or Expedia, who have been told.
Les Cyclades served as a quiet place to sleep however, and my annoyance abated. A five-minute walk to the Mercure ensured pool with balcony lunches and dinners overlooking the splendid architecture and ocean.
The trusty local 606 bus steered us to Montpellier, a most beautiful and ancient city. The Exocet navigated us to a bijou restaurant where Owner-in-the-Kitchen emerged to ensure the happiness and satisfaction of the clientele, with her truly exceptional food. If you find yourself in Montpellier, visit Coppia. It would be criminal not to. Then we walked and walked and before heading back to La Grande Motte found a superb farmer-bio-cooperative Epicerie Folle Avoine, where we bought good things for supper and lunch.
Back home, I met with The Tornado and Little Hurricane at The Postal Museum for a Fifth Birthday celebration, a simply magical few hours. The treat began with an excursion on the subterranean Mail Rail, a tiny train which, in days not long gone transported our post through deep tunnels that traversed beneath London, delivering to sorting centres where envelopes and packages were sent en route to destinations both near, far … and very far. The logistics behind this operation were astounding and the experience enlightening, with superb storytelling, history, compelling narratives and films shown at regular intervals along the ride.
Across the road at the museum itself one is taken back in time to horse drawn carriages, highwaymen and more. Artefacts, street furniture and items of yore are abundant, many (ahem) recognisable from my own youth. This museum is astonishing; its designers should be beyond proud. My liking for tourist “experiences” is pretty low but this one, I would happily embark upon again and again.
We rounded off the day with a delicious Lebanese lunch in Bloomsbury and some watery fun at Coram’s Fields.
As the summer evolves into August Bank Holiday, there is just one more Grand Event in store that falls upon that weekend; the 14th anniversary of my union with HH which, together with the arrival of My Girls is one of the happiest days of my life.
I’ll be back in the autumn … until then, Salute!
© Giovanna Forte 2026.




It’s a while since I shared travel tales but in the latter part of this year I traversed the length of England. Dear reader, please sit back and enjoy the narrative for at best I may raise a smile and at worst, you’ll know where not to stay in the UK.


